The mostly-useless pictures they chose for the Cafe' Racer magazine article, was like showing a picture of a rod cap and stud/nut as the only picture accompanying an article about how-to install a crankshaft kit. The pic and copy in the lower right is nothing to-do with me. That would have served to show anyone who was interested in how it was built for probably < $10, including a soda from the vending machine. I was peeved that they didn't use in the magazine article a pic of the master cylinder piston removal tool (post #28, above), fitted to the master cylinder. The Honda in the lower left hand side of the two-page spread is one of the customs (a SOHC Honda 750) which was built at the shop I frequent by Ft. This issue has a retrospective of the SOHC Honda 750/4, among other articles, and a skilled-repair section on welding a vintage DOHC Honda CB450 gas tank. I like that it's a reader-centric magazine, they always have pics of bikes guys have done, and there are some very-creative guys out there, who don't make it into the other magazines, those which are left. ![]() If you work on vintage motorcycles, and you're not a choppers-only guy, you probably saw plenty of interesting things in that issue. That issue was the April/May 2019 issue, the cover has a guy in a traditional black leather motorcycle 'competition' jacket. Not this issue, but if you're into old crocks, this has lots of interesting material, how-to's, and parts sources.Ĭlick to expand.Sorry, I was posting a generic example of Cafe' Racer magazine, not the specific issue in which the write-up was. It was featured awhile ago as a reader tip in 'Cafe' Racer' magazine. Bonus pic of some 40+ year-old crud inside the caliper which shows how-nasty the thing can-get.Īnd finally, if the banjo bolt is in-line with the master cyl piston, like it is on SOHC Hondas, here's a cheap tool I came up-with, to drive-out a stuck master cyl piston. Speaking of 'stuck things,' when I get a brake caliper which won't release the piston, I fill it with grease through the bleeder, I've yet to lose-out on this method, if an airhose doesn't pop it-out. By the time I got to this point, it came-out easily with very-little effort. I probably could have soon-switched to the Cornwell extractors, but I just kept drilling. Here's a metric allen screw on a SOHC Honda 750/4 brake caliper, the drill press did this one. PB Blaster and heat are usually prep steps for any effort. I've also used a cold chisel on button-head allen screws where the allen screw socket rounded-out. I just choose the one I feel most-confident is gonna work, this time. I have also done the 'weld-on something,' and left-hand twist drills. Of course you will need to be careful using the sulfuric acid.This is what I have, Cornwell, they have worked well for me. This may take a few hours to get the acid to eat it out. Then dipping the plate in sulfuric acid until the screw is eaten out of the movement. Any other steel exposed will need to be removed or have shellac applied to protect it. That will require disassembly to get just that plate (with broke screw) without any other screws in it. ![]() If you do not want the tool, the only other option to get the screw out is to use acid to eat the screw out. If that doesnt work, the only other option is the tool (may not work with that, and it is very iffy tool). Using a small pinvise, you may be able to get it to grip onto what is sticking out. If that doesnt work, you could try using a pinvise on what is sticking out. This is so you dont damage what is left sticking out too much. If it does not work the first couple times applying pressure, stop. ![]() You do not want it camming out (slipping). You need to make sure your screwdriver is dressed and the correct width, cause you will need to apply alot of downward pressure to get the screw out. ![]() Then using a screwdriver that is dressed for the screws, apply pressure and turn counter clockwise. Make sure you have it turned the same direction so it fits exactly as it broke. Very carefully put the head back on the broken part. With the setting lever out of the way, your head may sit further onto the broken slot enough for you to remove the screw. You could try putting the head back on the top of the screw. From the pic you sent, it looks like a clean break in the slot.
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